Famous Asscher Cut Diamonds
From the Krupp diamond to modern celebrity engagement rings
Quick answer
The history of the Asscher name is more useful to buyers than a list of celebrity rings. Joseph Asscher developed the original patented Asscher cut in 1902; the Asscher firm later played a central role in cutting the Cullinan rough; and the modern patented Royal Asscher Cut uses 74 facets rather than the traditional 58-facet arrangement described by Royal Asscher.
1902: the original Asscher cut
Royal Asscher’s first-party history attributes the original design to Joseph Asscher in 1902. The classic form is a square step cut with cropped corners and a 58-facet structure. That historical origin matters because today the word Asscher is often used commercially for square step-cut diamonds that grading reports may describe as Square Emerald Cut rather than by the Asscher trade name.
The Cullinan connection
The Asscher family’s reputation extends beyond the named cut. Joseph Asscher was entrusted with cleaving the Cullinan rough diamond in the early twentieth century. That history is part of why the Asscher name carries unusual recognition for a cutting family, but buyers should separate the historic house from generic diamonds sold today as “Asscher cut.”
Classic Asscher vs Royal Asscher
Royal Asscher states that its modern patented Royal Asscher Cut was introduced in 2001 and uses 74 facets, including additional pavilion facets, compared with the traditional 58-facet arrangement. This is a branded proprietary cut. A generic Asscher or Square Emerald Cut sold by another retailer should not be represented as a Royal Asscher unless it is actually from that branded system.
Why the distinction matters
| Term | What it usually means | Buyer check |
|---|---|---|
| Asscher cut | Common trade description for a square step-cut style with cropped corners. | Read the lab report, actual dimensions and video; do not infer a proprietary standard from the name alone. |
| Square Emerald Cut | A laboratory/report description often used for the square step-cut shape sold commercially as Asscher. | Evaluate proportions and optical pattern directly. |
| Royal Asscher Cut | Royal Asscher’s patented branded 74-facet design. | Verify branded provenance rather than assuming any Asscher is a Royal Asscher. |
Elizabeth Taylor’s Krupp diamond: a famous square step cut
Elizabeth Taylor’s 33.19-carat Krupp diamond is frequently associated in popular jewelry writing with the Asscher/step-cut family. Historic auction and museum descriptions should be preferred over repeating simplified celebrity labels. Its real relevance here is visual: large step cuts demonstrate how broad mirrored flashes and geometric depth create drama without the rapid scintillation of a round brilliant.
Famous examples: what is actually useful to a buyer?
| Example | Why it is relevant | Buyer lesson |
|---|---|---|
| The original Asscher design (1902) | Established the square step-cut form associated with the Asscher name | The identity comes from geometry and step facets, not round-brilliant sparkle |
| Royal Asscher Cut | Later patented 74-facet interpretation by the Asscher family | Do not treat “Royal Asscher” as a generic synonym for every Asscher-shaped diamond |
| Elizabeth Taylor's Krupp diamond | A historically famous square step-cut diamond often discussed alongside Asscher-style stones | Celebrity provenance does not establish the quality of a modern candidate; judge the stone in front of you |
What historical examples can—and cannot—teach a buyer
Historic stones demonstrate the aesthetic vocabulary of step cuts: clipped corners, architectural symmetry, large open facets and strong contrast. They do not establish ideal proportions for a modern purchase. GIA currently says there is no internationally accepted cut-grading system for fancy shapes, so a famous name or old design does not replace direct evaluation of the individual stone.
Use history as context, not as a quality shortcut
If you like the Art Deco association, translate that preference into concrete buying decisions: a near-square outline, visible corner clipping, a clean windmill pattern, and a setting that preserves the geometry. Then use report dimensions and video rather than relying on the word “Asscher” itself.
Source note: Royal Asscher is a first-party source for the company’s own history and branded-cut specifications; GIA is used for grading-system context. AsscherDiamond.com is independent and not affiliated with Royal Asscher.